Sunday, September 11, 2005

Resting - D 18

A striking point about all the accommodation I have stayed in is its variety. I stay usually in “gîtes d’étape” which are “hotels” where one sleeps in dormitories of 3 to 20 people. They are quite cheap – E6-12 – and sometimes offer supper – E9-12 – and sometimes breakfast – E4-6. I have been in a convent, at St Côme d’Olt, which had recently been completely renovated such that it was now like a modern hotel with rooms for 3 people, en suite bathroom, but still retaining its old characteristics. It was very nice and pilgrims were very well received: strongly recommended. I have been in the Hospitalet St Jacques at Estaing, a refuge run by laymen and a laywoman which was free but where one is invited to make a donation. They provided supper and breakfast, a service of compline in a very old chapel in the evening, and a service of prayers in the morning at which they pray for all pilgrims for 2 months after their visit that being the time it is expected to take to reach Santiago. Another nice touch: for the pilgrims going all the way they escort you across the bridge over the Lot River to see you on your way. Other walkers do not receive this treatment! I have stayed in an old pigeon tower (converted I hasten to say), private houses converted into gîtes, hotels which convert a loft into a gîte. All, without exception so far, have been spotless upon arrival, and they provide one with a bed, sometimes double-bunked, mattress, a blanket, and a pillow. One must, therefore, carry a sleeping bag or sleeping sheet. I think arrangements will be different in Spain…..we will see.

I am enjoying 3 days of rest as at Limogne en Quercy; resume walking today. After the magnificent scenery of the Aubrac and Magaride the countryside has become different and closer and, to an extent, less interesting. After Cahors I can expect changes, especially more rugged country. I have met several groups of people: the “Singers from Marseille” who offered songs last thing at night; the Bretons who were down for a week’s walking along the Way, doing a week each year to get to the end goal; the Normans, doing a similar thing and having their baggage transported from gîte to gîte on a daily basis; the 2 ladies one of whom is frightened of cows and had to be helped through a field of them; the French couple from St Etienne who have stayed in the same lodgings as me throughout the trip and with whom I have supped on almost all evenings since the start, but who, now, will be some 100km in front of me; the retired school-teacher who gets up at the time I have done 2 hours walking and who always arrives at the same gîte at 5pm exhausted by the heat or rain not to mention the walking! I expect to see him again before St Jean.

On... on…....ultraeia!

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