Up at 0630 or so, usually befor most others so no problem with basins / showers / loos ( which tend to be far less than the number that pilgrims require). Pack kit, modest breakfast provided by me or othe albergue. Set out some 45 minutes after rising.
Just a bit of light in the sky (a few light clouds today) but have to watch carefully for the yellow arrows and signs which indicate the Camino. A recce the afternoon before is usually invaluable (time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted!).
On the Camino look back east from time to time to see the sunrise (about 0755); beautiful one today, changing cloud colours, vapour trails pink, leaves on trees hues of pink, yellow, green as the sunlight catches them, church tower (with stork´s nest) silhouetted against the sky, the morning star due west visible until just before the sun rose.
Five minute pause after one hour – rucksack off – resume walking. No one else in sight in any direction. Do I hear a shot? Yes, definitely! A hunter or 2 must be nearby. I put up some grouse so perhaps they are shooting those: not sure. Hunters usually have one or 2 dogs with them, no idea what kind but they ain´t Labradors! Have passed through wooded country and am out in flat, open country.
Ten minute pause after 2 hours. I find these stops useful for me (others do not stop for 2-3 hours). March on, drinking water all the while. Need to pee – nobody around (those people way over there wouldnt know if I was on my head or heels), good. Colour of water? Clear, so am drinking enough (if yellow, not drinking enough. Most important to drink plenty or tendonitis and / or other problems might arise.).
About a 15 minute pause after 3 hours, need some calories so eat banana (takes some 7 minutes to get into the system I read somewhere once) and it gives a boost.
Here comes the Swede: “Everything OK?” he asks.
“Yes, fine thanks. Where are you stopping tonight?”
“Sorry, please repeat.” So I do.
“At Mansilla, another 16 km or so.”
“Probably see you there.....buen camino!”
March on in solitude admiring the vista all around. A village comes into view; shoulders are tiring with the weight of the sack so I´ll have lunch there, if there´s a bench to sit on. Yes, stop for lunch; greet 2 pilgrims who pass and wish me “Buen provecho” as do 3 locals who walk by. I reckon on lunching about 4 hours after setting out.
Move on. Back onto a track again so faced with decision of which bit to walk on, where the going is best (deja vu!).....
Here comes a slight up slope, therefore a view in prospect, marvellous! Oh! Is that the village of Reliegos way off in front which means, if so, that Mansilla is another 6 km beyond? Hmm, I calculate that means 10 km or so to go, and I´m feeling pretty knackered! Let´s walk on and see.....Great! Here´s Reliegos, just in front of me (hidden by a slight hump I hadn´t seen back there), so it´s only 6.5 km to Mansilla. Lift in spirits as not so far to go – easy!
Stop in the bar at Reliegos, greet the 2 French Canadians I have been seeing periodically since Burgos. Have a hot chocolate. Nice to get out of the wind which is quite strong. The bar has a pot-bellied stove in the middle of the room. The barman puts on some wood and within 5 minutes the place is filled with smoke. But it smells good!
Continue; reach Mansilla de las Mulas about 1600 hrs. Find albergue without any problem – select bed (mattress on floor) in a room with 6 other pilgrims who have arrived before me and who have selected the lower of the bunk beds. Ablutions – write up diary – plan route and lodging for next day – pay the hospitalero of the albergue – brew tea and eat biscuits / patisserie – wander briefly in the village to look at sights (church, main square, route out for tomorrow) – identify shop / “supermarket”. Plan food requirements for next day. Breakfast supplied or not by the albergue? No, therefore must buy breakfast or go to a café (if open at 0700 hrs) and buy lunch too. [Now, here is a difficult moment! If it is a decent shop it will have all sorts of goodies one has not eaten, or, indeed, even thought of, for weeks. I cannot buy much at all because I cannot carry it! So the goodies sit there on the shelf, things like different cheeses, gazpacho soup, varied breads, fresh vegetables to name but some.]
Supper at 1930 in adjacent restaurant. Menu del dia for €7: macaroni, chicken and fritas, fruit, wine. (I was recently told that in Franco´s time it became law that restaurants have to provide a “daily menu” at a cheap price. I am not sure if that applies, in principle, to all restaurants.) A third or half litre of wine is always provided, or another drink, within the price.
Bed at 2145, lights out, p & q, zzzzzz.........
............zzzzzzZZZZZZ at 0130 the man in the corner is snoring loudly (some people wear ear-plugs to combat the blight). Did I say p & q?!
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
Each Spanish city I have visited has greeted me with rain. Leon is the worst; heavy rain yesterday afternoon after I arrived and again this afternoon. A morning´s worth of sun allowed me to see the town today, which is quite spendid and the Cathedral did not disappoint. Some 1800 sq m of stained glass windows adorn it, and it is quite enormous. The Iglesia of San Isidoro has a fine painting backdrop to the altar, and the old town with its narrow streets make it most attractive. It is a lovely place.
I caught a glimpse of the mountains to come this morning. The Cruz de Ferro, which I should reach on the fourth day of walking from here, will be the highest point on the Camino. The forecast for the next 2 days is rain and I want clear views when I start climbing on day 3! And I am heading towards the wettest part of Spain!
Monday, October 31, 2005
Saturday, October 29, 2005
....and quietly flows the Camino
Kinda damp! Yesterday it rained all day, some 29 km or 7 hours of it! But I must consider myself lucky that this is the first day it has rained all day in some 58 days of walking. You go along, head down watching where you put your feet so, as they say in racing parlance, the going is soft. Part of your vision is obscured by your hood; you fiddle with it to get it right, excellent, it´s OK. Where do I go on the track? It looks good here but no, there are stones making it rough; looks better on that side over there so over you go. 50 metres on it´s getting too soft here, better try the crown of the track, looks firm there, so change. Oh no! There are rough stones here now, what´s it like ahead? A smooth path seems be just off there on the left. Previous walkers have made it that so it must be OK. Move over to that path on the edge of the track. Aieeee…doggone it! I saw that stone so I did I come to kick it?! Oh well, the pain´ll only last a couple of minutes. It must be the 1337th stone I´ve kicked since starting this trek – but, touch wood, the feet are still in good shape. Ah good, here comes some tarmac so I don´t have to keep looking at the ground. I can look around a bit more, but the hood has slipped in that gust of wind, needs adjusting….Why´s that bloke in his car – the first in 20 minutes - waving his arm at me? Wants me on the pilgrims´ path or is he saying “Buen camino”?
At the end of the day a fair bit of the outside clothing was wet or damp so Rule Number One had to be applied. Rule Number One? Yes, one set of kit must be kept dry at all times so that it can be put on in when one stops walking. If the wet / damp clothes are not dry by the morning on they go again. So it was this morning as there was little chance of drying out clothes in an Albergue where the temperature was 13C. Putting some on my sleeping bag during the night helped but they were still slightly damp. Dried the boots partially in the bar opposite.
Looked out this morning: crescent, waning moon visible. Good, no rain. Hang socks out to dry on rucksack. After sunrise leaden skies where I was, but over there you can see the sun coming up. Where´s the wind? It´s coming from where the sun is, in the east, so that means it will a clear sky here soon……Later on, where´s that blue sky? It´s still over there…Come on, come here where I am……Oh no, feels like raindrops, on with the wet weather gear again. But no rain fell, the wind got up and it became really strong so it moved me around on the track.
The journey seemed never ending today on the Calzada Romana or Roman Way. I elected to follow the old Camino rather than a more direct route beside a road. The guide book advised switching to the road route at a point I calculated be 20 km from my starting point. So where is this point? I am out in the open in virtually featureless country. How long to take to walk 20 km? Leaving at 0755 hrs I should be there around 1255 at my speed. It´s important I get this turning right because if not and I go straight on I arrive at a river which, after rain, is crossable only by swimming! At 1235 a junction comes into view, track going off in the right direction, across a level crossing…that must be it, but no signs to indicate where it leads and I cannot quite see due to the folds in the ground. Take it….ah yes it´s OK I can see another walker in the distance going the right way.
Eventually arrived at Manzilla de las Mulas after 33 km on the trail. Leon tomorrow…
That young Frenchman, Philippe, I mentioned a couple of days back: had supper with him 2 weeks ago and asked him why he is doing the Camino a second time. He had some sort of injury to his leg some 2 years ago which put him in bed for 2-3 months and he wanted to see that it was now fine, plus he felt a spiritual need to do it again from where he lived in the Basque country near SJPP. The last I saw of him was near the Rioja Alta Golf Club at Cirueña. He caught me up.
“I thought it was you,” he said, “by the shape of your stick”. We talked for a few minutes as we went along. “I feel really inspired by an old boy I met yesterday while walking, and today I feel in good form because I have learned the Pilgims´ Song. I can easily do 30 km.” So saying he speeded up and sang the song as he went off into the distance. Within 2 hours he was a small dot way in front of me. What enthusiasm! Not met him again since.
Still lots of pigrims on the Camino: anywhere between 6 and 20 in the municipal albergues.
At the end of the day a fair bit of the outside clothing was wet or damp so Rule Number One had to be applied. Rule Number One? Yes, one set of kit must be kept dry at all times so that it can be put on in when one stops walking. If the wet / damp clothes are not dry by the morning on they go again. So it was this morning as there was little chance of drying out clothes in an Albergue where the temperature was 13C. Putting some on my sleeping bag during the night helped but they were still slightly damp. Dried the boots partially in the bar opposite.
Looked out this morning: crescent, waning moon visible. Good, no rain. Hang socks out to dry on rucksack. After sunrise leaden skies where I was, but over there you can see the sun coming up. Where´s the wind? It´s coming from where the sun is, in the east, so that means it will a clear sky here soon……Later on, where´s that blue sky? It´s still over there…Come on, come here where I am……Oh no, feels like raindrops, on with the wet weather gear again. But no rain fell, the wind got up and it became really strong so it moved me around on the track.
The journey seemed never ending today on the Calzada Romana or Roman Way. I elected to follow the old Camino rather than a more direct route beside a road. The guide book advised switching to the road route at a point I calculated be 20 km from my starting point. So where is this point? I am out in the open in virtually featureless country. How long to take to walk 20 km? Leaving at 0755 hrs I should be there around 1255 at my speed. It´s important I get this turning right because if not and I go straight on I arrive at a river which, after rain, is crossable only by swimming! At 1235 a junction comes into view, track going off in the right direction, across a level crossing…that must be it, but no signs to indicate where it leads and I cannot quite see due to the folds in the ground. Take it….ah yes it´s OK I can see another walker in the distance going the right way.
Eventually arrived at Manzilla de las Mulas after 33 km on the trail. Leon tomorrow…
That young Frenchman, Philippe, I mentioned a couple of days back: had supper with him 2 weeks ago and asked him why he is doing the Camino a second time. He had some sort of injury to his leg some 2 years ago which put him in bed for 2-3 months and he wanted to see that it was now fine, plus he felt a spiritual need to do it again from where he lived in the Basque country near SJPP. The last I saw of him was near the Rioja Alta Golf Club at Cirueña. He caught me up.
“I thought it was you,” he said, “by the shape of your stick”. We talked for a few minutes as we went along. “I feel really inspired by an old boy I met yesterday while walking, and today I feel in good form because I have learned the Pilgims´ Song. I can easily do 30 km.” So saying he speeded up and sang the song as he went off into the distance. Within 2 hours he was a small dot way in front of me. What enthusiasm! Not met him again since.
Still lots of pigrims on the Camino: anywhere between 6 and 20 in the municipal albergues.
Thursday, October 27, 2005
La Meseta
Il y a bien une quinzaine qu´un jeune Francais, Philippe, m´a recommende de passer par l´Albergue en el Camino a Boadilla del Camino. Il l´a consideree la meilleure auberge sur le Chemin, en Espagne, qu´il a visite (il y a 2 ans). Donc, j´ai fait l´effort de la visiter.
En entrant par la porte en bois, tres rustique, on se trouvait dans un jardin avec belle pelouse tondue (pas une mauvaise herbe), piscine (en etat de fonctionnement, mais froide), de grandes pots a fleurs remplis de fleurs, ancien batiment bien restaure pour le refuge pelerins, propre, bien equippe de meubles confortable (fauteuils), gerant acceuillant....enfin, tout ce que je veux! Tout ca pour le prix de €15 - diner, lit, pdj.
Je suis en train de traverser "la Meseta", pays plat, agricultural, tres ouvert, peu d´arbres, et Chemin rectilingue jusqu´a ce qu´on puisse voir. On a l´impression de marcher tres lentement mais une colline lointaine arrive eventuellement et passe derriere soi. Rythme de marche: 4 km dans l´heure; etapes de 27-30 km par jour. On travers la Meseta a une altitude de 800 m +; bon temps jusqu´a present, mais la prevision est mauvaise!
J´ai passe une journee de repos a Burgos (donc 2 nuits), ville formidable avec une cathedrale exceptionelle: 19 chapelles, cloitre a 2 etages, un travail en pierres a l´interieur et l´exterieur bien impressionant, quelques tableaux de peintures tres bons....et ainsi de suite. On dit "la reine de des cathedrales gothiques" et "une des plus belles d´Europe". On dit qu la cathedrale a Leon est aussi "une merveille gothique". Un autre jour de repos s´impose.
Position actuelle: Calzadilla de la Cueza, 81 km est de Leon, a mi-chemin entre SJPP et Santiago, donc 397 km a parcourir.
En entrant par la porte en bois, tres rustique, on se trouvait dans un jardin avec belle pelouse tondue (pas une mauvaise herbe), piscine (en etat de fonctionnement, mais froide), de grandes pots a fleurs remplis de fleurs, ancien batiment bien restaure pour le refuge pelerins, propre, bien equippe de meubles confortable (fauteuils), gerant acceuillant....enfin, tout ce que je veux! Tout ca pour le prix de €15 - diner, lit, pdj.
Je suis en train de traverser "la Meseta", pays plat, agricultural, tres ouvert, peu d´arbres, et Chemin rectilingue jusqu´a ce qu´on puisse voir. On a l´impression de marcher tres lentement mais une colline lointaine arrive eventuellement et passe derriere soi. Rythme de marche: 4 km dans l´heure; etapes de 27-30 km par jour. On travers la Meseta a une altitude de 800 m +; bon temps jusqu´a present, mais la prevision est mauvaise!
J´ai passe une journee de repos a Burgos (donc 2 nuits), ville formidable avec une cathedrale exceptionelle: 19 chapelles, cloitre a 2 etages, un travail en pierres a l´interieur et l´exterieur bien impressionant, quelques tableaux de peintures tres bons....et ainsi de suite. On dit "la reine de des cathedrales gothiques" et "une des plus belles d´Europe". On dit qu la cathedrale a Leon est aussi "une merveille gothique". Un autre jour de repos s´impose.
Position actuelle: Calzadilla de la Cueza, 81 km est de Leon, a mi-chemin entre SJPP et Santiago, donc 397 km a parcourir.
Friday, October 21, 2005
Stepping back in time
The Camino is really a step back in time: staying in old albergues (= inns), seeing villages and churches which date back 100s of years, being reminded from time to time of those who provided for pilgrims in the early years of the last millenium, eg Santo Domingo de la Calzada and San Juan de Ortega.
It is also a form of escapism for many: no need to keep in touch with the world, but the enjoyment of meeting other walkers of like mind walking to Santiago or part way. I think many pilgrims return to do part or all of the Way because they enjoy the experience and they hope to re-capture the good moments they enjoyed the first time - and they must succeed because they do it more than once!
Two nights ago would be a case in point. In the Albergue de Juan Bautista at Grañon there was a special atmosphere. First, the albergue: situated as an attachment to the church with one wall being common to the church and inn; a dining / sitting room with room with dormitory as a mezzanine floor overlooking the dining area, the whole under a wooden, sloping roof. In the corner a large fire-place, later lit by the Frenchman (hospitalero) running the place (for a fortnight), and a filled in church window in the church wall; upstairs the bell tower (where washing could be hung!). Second, the people: 19 pilgrims sat down to supper after a Spaniard had entertained us to guitar playing and singing, and another had sung in a powerful voice, and afterwards he could be heard singing in the church during evening prayers. A particularly attractive albergue, well run - and sleeping on mattresses on the floor was no discomfort after a 28 km walk! I was tempted to have a second night there, but will do that in the important town of Burgos, due to be reached tomorrow, where there is much to see.
And what of the walking? Wonderful, long, open views across rolling and, indeed, mountainous country. On Monday (17 October) the sunrise was spectacular and we could see the Pyrenees, well over 100 km away, silhouetted against the sky in the dawn light. Most days are good but yesterday was not! Rain throughout the walk which was largely beside a busy main road (also known as the Camino de Santiago), but today was really good being through open country, then forest, over a "pass" (1150m), a visit to the fine old church of San Juan de Ortega, described as a jewel on the Camino, and finally into Atapuerca, a small old village, and an old albergue for the night.
A landmark : passed the 1000 km mark on this day, the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar. Better not comment on the outcome as there may be French readers and I am in Spain!
It is also a form of escapism for many: no need to keep in touch with the world, but the enjoyment of meeting other walkers of like mind walking to Santiago or part way. I think many pilgrims return to do part or all of the Way because they enjoy the experience and they hope to re-capture the good moments they enjoyed the first time - and they must succeed because they do it more than once!
Two nights ago would be a case in point. In the Albergue de Juan Bautista at Grañon there was a special atmosphere. First, the albergue: situated as an attachment to the church with one wall being common to the church and inn; a dining / sitting room with room with dormitory as a mezzanine floor overlooking the dining area, the whole under a wooden, sloping roof. In the corner a large fire-place, later lit by the Frenchman (hospitalero) running the place (for a fortnight), and a filled in church window in the church wall; upstairs the bell tower (where washing could be hung!). Second, the people: 19 pilgrims sat down to supper after a Spaniard had entertained us to guitar playing and singing, and another had sung in a powerful voice, and afterwards he could be heard singing in the church during evening prayers. A particularly attractive albergue, well run - and sleeping on mattresses on the floor was no discomfort after a 28 km walk! I was tempted to have a second night there, but will do that in the important town of Burgos, due to be reached tomorrow, where there is much to see.
And what of the walking? Wonderful, long, open views across rolling and, indeed, mountainous country. On Monday (17 October) the sunrise was spectacular and we could see the Pyrenees, well over 100 km away, silhouetted against the sky in the dawn light. Most days are good but yesterday was not! Rain throughout the walk which was largely beside a busy main road (also known as the Camino de Santiago), but today was really good being through open country, then forest, over a "pass" (1150m), a visit to the fine old church of San Juan de Ortega, described as a jewel on the Camino, and finally into Atapuerca, a small old village, and an old albergue for the night.
A landmark : passed the 1000 km mark on this day, the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar. Better not comment on the outcome as there may be French readers and I am in Spain!
Monday, October 17, 2005
Les grandes espaces.....
Descendu des Pyrenees il y a 6 jours je me trouve dans les grandes espaces ouvertes de l´Espagne avec ses longues vues. Ce matin c´était formidable au levée du jour: on pouvait voir des Pyrenées à une distance de 100 km ou plus, silhouétée contre le ciel.
Une petite déception hier matin à Irache: à la fontaine du vin il n´y en avait pas, mais on était bien exhorté de boire si on voulait arriver à Santiago avec force et vitalité et félicité! Je continue quand-meme!
Quelques statistiques: aujourd´hui 21 Km en moins de 6 heures enter Torres del Río et Logroño où je suis, demain 28 km à Nàjera; temps toujours nuageux, temp 10-18C, peu de pluie; 926 km parcourus et 625 km à faire à Santiago.
Après Logroño je vais bientot monter sur la meseta qui dure quelques 250 km d´un terrain rélativement plat....
Une petite déception hier matin à Irache: à la fontaine du vin il n´y en avait pas, mais on était bien exhorté de boire si on voulait arriver à Santiago avec force et vitalité et félicité! Je continue quand-meme!
Quelques statistiques: aujourd´hui 21 Km en moins de 6 heures enter Torres del Río et Logroño où je suis, demain 28 km à Nàjera; temps toujours nuageux, temp 10-18C, peu de pluie; 926 km parcourus et 625 km à faire à Santiago.
Après Logroño je vais bientot monter sur la meseta qui dure quelques 250 km d´un terrain rélativement plat....
Thursday, October 13, 2005
From Chemin to Camino
There are places on the Camino where walkers leave or join: Conques, Moissac, Condom, St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) in France, the last being a particularly significant point as it is the last important town in France before crossing the Pyrenees. In Spain important towns are Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Leon before Santiago.
My 2 days / 3 nights rest in the delightful town of SJPP were most enjoyable. Its principle features are its citadel, very old buildings many of which have the constructor´s name and date of construction engraved into the lintel above the door, its cobbled streetswith many boutiques, a very welcoming "Accueil des Pelerins" / "Pilgrims´Office" in the Rue de la Citadelle, numerous tourists (even in October) walking, cycling, driving and arriving / leaving by train.
I chose to do the stage to Roncevalles, where there is the first accommodation in Spain, in 2 stages with a night in the Auberge at Orisson. It was new and good: a completely isolated building with a wonderful view into the Pyrenees and down to the valley near SJPP. To get there required a steep climb, mostly on a road, for 8 km (175m to 770m altitude) through land used for agriculture and sheep grazing. A good supper and night´s rest was necessary for the next day, which entailed climbing to 1430m (and the half way point between Le Puy and Santiago). Nothing difficult with the route but the gale force wind for a few hours gave one the feeling of climbing a very steep route. It even stopped me once or twice it was so strong! Fortunately, it was not cold.
Views and countryside were splendid: open, treeless mountains, then heather and gorse, more open mountainside, and a descent through beech woods to Roncevalles and its impressive Colegiata. I elected not to spend the night there, as it was only 1300hrs and the refugio did not open until 1600hrs. I carried on to Espinal, covering some 29 km for the day.
A very good 2 days crossing of the Pyrenees followed yesterday by a further descent through pine forest to Larrasoaña and on to Pamplona today, a very old, walled city founded by Pompey in the last century BC. Regrettably, the cathedral and churches were not accessible when I was there (1200 - 1300 hrs).
Now at rest in Cizur Menor, in an Albergue much better than last night in Larrasoaña.
My 2 days / 3 nights rest in the delightful town of SJPP were most enjoyable. Its principle features are its citadel, very old buildings many of which have the constructor´s name and date of construction engraved into the lintel above the door, its cobbled streetswith many boutiques, a very welcoming "Accueil des Pelerins" / "Pilgrims´Office" in the Rue de la Citadelle, numerous tourists (even in October) walking, cycling, driving and arriving / leaving by train.
I chose to do the stage to Roncevalles, where there is the first accommodation in Spain, in 2 stages with a night in the Auberge at Orisson. It was new and good: a completely isolated building with a wonderful view into the Pyrenees and down to the valley near SJPP. To get there required a steep climb, mostly on a road, for 8 km (175m to 770m altitude) through land used for agriculture and sheep grazing. A good supper and night´s rest was necessary for the next day, which entailed climbing to 1430m (and the half way point between Le Puy and Santiago). Nothing difficult with the route but the gale force wind for a few hours gave one the feeling of climbing a very steep route. It even stopped me once or twice it was so strong! Fortunately, it was not cold.
Views and countryside were splendid: open, treeless mountains, then heather and gorse, more open mountainside, and a descent through beech woods to Roncevalles and its impressive Colegiata. I elected not to spend the night there, as it was only 1300hrs and the refugio did not open until 1600hrs. I carried on to Espinal, covering some 29 km for the day.
A very good 2 days crossing of the Pyrenees followed yesterday by a further descent through pine forest to Larrasoaña and on to Pamplona today, a very old, walled city founded by Pompey in the last century BC. Regrettably, the cathedral and churches were not accessible when I was there (1200 - 1300 hrs).
Now at rest in Cizur Menor, in an Albergue much better than last night in Larrasoaña.
Saturday, October 08, 2005
Sous un Chemin d'Etoiles
Un petit frisson d'émotion en passant sous la Porche St Jacques en arrivant à St Jean Pied de Port hier, le 7 octobre, après 34 jours de marche (plus 9 jours de repos) et 740 km parcourus. C'était une journée splendide: soleil (plus de 25C), belles vues, chemin facile, accueil très bon au Gîte Sous un Chemin d'Etoiles......
Les hébergements où on loge sont bien variables. Je donne quelques examples de ce que l'on peut trouver. Peut-etre plus tard ferai-je un "bilan" détaillé.
A St Côme d'Olt le Couvent de Malet était vraiment formidable: une hospitalière très gentille, de bonnes soeurs (rélativement peu - 18), un batiment récemment restauré à l'intérieur, dîner et pdj corrects. C'était, en effet, comme un hôtel de luxe avec chaque chambre (3 lits) et salle d'eau en suite, vue imprenable sur le village; un magnifique escalier ancien en chêne; jardin; très propre; belle chapelle....
L'acceuil à l'Hospitalet St Jacques à Estaing, géré par les laïques, était fort bien. On célébrait dans la chapelle en bois les Complies le soir et les Laudes le matin. Pendant celui-ci on prie pour les pèlerins qui vont à St Jacques en lisant du livre de registre les noms de chaque pèlerin qui y vont pour une période de 2 mois, le temps qu'il faut pour y arriver. Autre tradition: pour les vrais jacquaires un des personnel vous accompagne à travers le pont sur le Lot jusq'à la sortie du village.
Donc, 2 hébergements très bons.
Par contre, à éviter: le Relais de St Jacques à Montréal sur Gers. Sale, insuffisantes lampes dans les chambres / couloirs, les annonces partout qui vous disent qu'il est interdit de faire un tas de choses, une gérante peu acceuillante; mais, quand-meme, un bon diner et pdj.
La grande majorité de gîtes / hébergements sont propres, bien équippés de tout ce qu'il faut dans la cuisine comme matériel, couverture et oreiller pour le lit, et parfois on peut louer des draps si l'on veut. Je crois qu'ils sont plus luxueux que les réfuges en Espagne. A voir! Et, en France, on peut réserver son lit à l'avance!
Les dîners sont presque toujours copieux, délicieux, et normalement se compose de 4 plats: soupe / crudités, salade / omelette, plat de résistance avec pate et / ou viande (souvent canard sur le Via Podiensis!), fromage et / ou dessert, plus vin. Deux ou 3 hôtes nous a offert un apéritif et un digestif - une fois l'Armagnac (dans la région de l'Armagnac) âgé de 20 ans et aussi un autre plus jeune et plus fort! Tout ça pour E10-12! On est souvent gâté!
La plupart de ces mots j'écrivais en plein soleil le 5 octobre à Aroue, petit village à quelques 40 km des Pyrénées que je voyais du jardin oû je m'asseyait. Quelles vues on avait la veille et l'avant-veille entre Arrzacq-Arraziget et Navarrenx! On voyait presque la moitié de tout le massif des Pyrénées - et de la neige, déjà, sur les cimes les plus hautes. Réservation faite à Orisson (770 m d'altitude), le dernier réfuge en France, pour lundi le 10 octobre. Heureusement, pas de neige à cet endroit, qui sera à mi-chemin entre Le Puy et St Jacques, quelques 750 km distant.
Les hébergements où on loge sont bien variables. Je donne quelques examples de ce que l'on peut trouver. Peut-etre plus tard ferai-je un "bilan" détaillé.
A St Côme d'Olt le Couvent de Malet était vraiment formidable: une hospitalière très gentille, de bonnes soeurs (rélativement peu - 18), un batiment récemment restauré à l'intérieur, dîner et pdj corrects. C'était, en effet, comme un hôtel de luxe avec chaque chambre (3 lits) et salle d'eau en suite, vue imprenable sur le village; un magnifique escalier ancien en chêne; jardin; très propre; belle chapelle....
L'acceuil à l'Hospitalet St Jacques à Estaing, géré par les laïques, était fort bien. On célébrait dans la chapelle en bois les Complies le soir et les Laudes le matin. Pendant celui-ci on prie pour les pèlerins qui vont à St Jacques en lisant du livre de registre les noms de chaque pèlerin qui y vont pour une période de 2 mois, le temps qu'il faut pour y arriver. Autre tradition: pour les vrais jacquaires un des personnel vous accompagne à travers le pont sur le Lot jusq'à la sortie du village.
Donc, 2 hébergements très bons.
Par contre, à éviter: le Relais de St Jacques à Montréal sur Gers. Sale, insuffisantes lampes dans les chambres / couloirs, les annonces partout qui vous disent qu'il est interdit de faire un tas de choses, une gérante peu acceuillante; mais, quand-meme, un bon diner et pdj.
La grande majorité de gîtes / hébergements sont propres, bien équippés de tout ce qu'il faut dans la cuisine comme matériel, couverture et oreiller pour le lit, et parfois on peut louer des draps si l'on veut. Je crois qu'ils sont plus luxueux que les réfuges en Espagne. A voir! Et, en France, on peut réserver son lit à l'avance!
Les dîners sont presque toujours copieux, délicieux, et normalement se compose de 4 plats: soupe / crudités, salade / omelette, plat de résistance avec pate et / ou viande (souvent canard sur le Via Podiensis!), fromage et / ou dessert, plus vin. Deux ou 3 hôtes nous a offert un apéritif et un digestif - une fois l'Armagnac (dans la région de l'Armagnac) âgé de 20 ans et aussi un autre plus jeune et plus fort! Tout ça pour E10-12! On est souvent gâté!
La plupart de ces mots j'écrivais en plein soleil le 5 octobre à Aroue, petit village à quelques 40 km des Pyrénées que je voyais du jardin oû je m'asseyait. Quelles vues on avait la veille et l'avant-veille entre Arrzacq-Arraziget et Navarrenx! On voyait presque la moitié de tout le massif des Pyrénées - et de la neige, déjà, sur les cimes les plus hautes. Réservation faite à Orisson (770 m d'altitude), le dernier réfuge en France, pour lundi le 10 octobre. Heureusement, pas de neige à cet endroit, qui sera à mi-chemin entre Le Puy et St Jacques, quelques 750 km distant.
Tuesday, October 04, 2005
Approaching halfway
“ Hello, I didn’t see you in the gite « Maison des Pèlerins » (at Aire-sur-l’Adour) last night.”
“No, I camped out,” the Canadian said.
“You do well to carry a tent with you all the time, considering its weight.”
“I don’t. I just sleep on the ground.”
“And for breakfast?”
“I find a shop / boulangerie in the next village.”
“But today I don’t think there is a village for miles because it’s all across country!”
This at 0815 in the morning, while being overtaken by another pilgrim.
“Where were you last Sunday when that storm broke?”
“Crouched over my rucksack with my poncho covering me and it, for 1 1/2 hours.”
I, fortunately, was a few yards from my gite – as yet still closed, as it was only 1200hrs - sheltering in the porch of a bank in Lectoure, watching the rain lash down and seeing the street turn into a river for half an hour.
The Camino / Chemin / Way to Compostela is like a river, gently flowing, bearing the pilgrims along like leaves which are stopped by obstructions (gites, lodgings, sights), but they get going again. The movement is relentless: when you re-join the current there are more pilgrims / walkers moving along inexorably. However, in France at least, there appears to be a slowing down now that September has passed. Many people stop at St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) and will return next year to continue over the Pyrenees into Spain.
My latest acquaintances include 2 Brittany ladies walking from Figeac to SJPP, a French couple with Labrador, Antoine the Belgian, who started in Belgium and is going all the way to Santiago pulling his trailer with his tent on it, and others.
The rich pattern and variety of styles of church and villages continues. Some churches go back to Roman times, fortified villages, known as “bastides”, date back to the days of the Hundred Years War and when the English were giving the French a lot of grief in Acquitaine.
The Way (GR 65) passes through Gascogne and there is plenty of evidence of the current English invasion, properties bought in large numbers (most of the chateaux, I am told, are bought by the English).
Just before Condom (490km from Le Puy) I saw the Pyrenees for the first time. Instant boost to morale, pack suddenly 2 kg lighter! It meant I was closing in on the half way stage, but still with 250 km to do, however. This on the 24th day of walking…..
And my leg? After 6 days of rest I set out again and it has been fine. When I stayed in the convent at Moissac I managed to have my feet massaged by the reflexologist: a pleasant experience. He opined that I had strained a tendon rather than pulled a muscle. The recipe for avoiding a recurrence was to walk no more than 20-25 km / day, to drink 2-3 litres of water / day, to carry no more than 10% of my weight (= 7 kg), and to rest completely for a day from time to time. The wearing and tiring effect is cumulative.
Where am I now? At Naverrenx, some 70 km from SJPP and 650 km from Le Puy. Have had a wonderful day’s walking today looking at the Pyrenees beneath a cloudless sky and seeing them get ever closer. Expect to cross on 10 and 11 October.
A little feedback from readers would help: can I ask you to please post a short message, in English or French, by clicking on Comments below, just to say “Seen by a reader from the Yukon”, or “Jeannette de Nice trouve votre site intéressant”, or even ask a question…..
“No, I camped out,” the Canadian said.
“You do well to carry a tent with you all the time, considering its weight.”
“I don’t. I just sleep on the ground.”
“And for breakfast?”
“I find a shop / boulangerie in the next village.”
“But today I don’t think there is a village for miles because it’s all across country!”
This at 0815 in the morning, while being overtaken by another pilgrim.
“Where were you last Sunday when that storm broke?”
“Crouched over my rucksack with my poncho covering me and it, for 1 1/2 hours.”
I, fortunately, was a few yards from my gite – as yet still closed, as it was only 1200hrs - sheltering in the porch of a bank in Lectoure, watching the rain lash down and seeing the street turn into a river for half an hour.
The Camino / Chemin / Way to Compostela is like a river, gently flowing, bearing the pilgrims along like leaves which are stopped by obstructions (gites, lodgings, sights), but they get going again. The movement is relentless: when you re-join the current there are more pilgrims / walkers moving along inexorably. However, in France at least, there appears to be a slowing down now that September has passed. Many people stop at St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) and will return next year to continue over the Pyrenees into Spain.
My latest acquaintances include 2 Brittany ladies walking from Figeac to SJPP, a French couple with Labrador, Antoine the Belgian, who started in Belgium and is going all the way to Santiago pulling his trailer with his tent on it, and others.
The rich pattern and variety of styles of church and villages continues. Some churches go back to Roman times, fortified villages, known as “bastides”, date back to the days of the Hundred Years War and when the English were giving the French a lot of grief in Acquitaine.
The Way (GR 65) passes through Gascogne and there is plenty of evidence of the current English invasion, properties bought in large numbers (most of the chateaux, I am told, are bought by the English).
Just before Condom (490km from Le Puy) I saw the Pyrenees for the first time. Instant boost to morale, pack suddenly 2 kg lighter! It meant I was closing in on the half way stage, but still with 250 km to do, however. This on the 24th day of walking…..
And my leg? After 6 days of rest I set out again and it has been fine. When I stayed in the convent at Moissac I managed to have my feet massaged by the reflexologist: a pleasant experience. He opined that I had strained a tendon rather than pulled a muscle. The recipe for avoiding a recurrence was to walk no more than 20-25 km / day, to drink 2-3 litres of water / day, to carry no more than 10% of my weight (= 7 kg), and to rest completely for a day from time to time. The wearing and tiring effect is cumulative.
Where am I now? At Naverrenx, some 70 km from SJPP and 650 km from Le Puy. Have had a wonderful day’s walking today looking at the Pyrenees beneath a cloudless sky and seeing them get ever closer. Expect to cross on 10 and 11 October.
A little feedback from readers would help: can I ask you to please post a short message, in English or French, by clicking on Comments below, just to say “Seen by a reader from the Yukon”, or “Jeannette de Nice trouve votre site intéressant”, or even ask a question…..
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